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The Salsa Voyage

Fitting out an Alberg 30 for a circumnavigation

(Leg 1 - Maryland to Brunswick, Georgia)

click images to enlarge

Salsa departs Brunswick, GA on 2 March 2008

With his permission, below I've copied an August 2007 email I received from Kirk Little in Deale, Maryland:

Subject : Checking on Consulting and Services for refitting an Alberg 30. 
James, I am equipping a 1972 Alberg 30 for a planned three-year circumnavigation via Panama and Suez. I plan to head south from the Chesapeake Bay November 2007 for Panama via Key West and Mexico. My primary reason for contacting you is to check your availability for (at the very least) some basic consulting during my equipping and minor-refitting projects over the next three months and to discuss the possibility of you assisting with some of the projects. Big items on my list right now is to purchase and install; radar, chart plotter, autopilot, SSB, solar/wind chargers and batteries. Plus rebuild and install my Aries windvane. Install new Profurl unit, rebed all chain plates and deck hardware. I guess that’s the ‘bulk’ of the list. I’m a bit torn somewhere between attempting to tackle these projects on my own, possibly delaying my departure, or paying for help and over-extending my budget.
The reason I have contacted YOU specifically is that over a year ago I read nearly your entire website and remember being greatly inspired by your story, and very much agreeable to your style of solving problems, modifications and sailing in general. Hope to hear from you soon! –Kirk Little

I often get email from young people wanting to know how to get started on an adventure under sail. Many are just dreamers, bouncing from one fancy to another and their schemes fizzle out before they get started. Some are committed to seeing their dream realized; a few even succeed. Kirk, I learned, had less than a year sailing experience, sailing mostly as crew between the northeast US coast and Bahamas.

To prepare for my first circumnavigation in 1984 I spent three years fitting out and learning to sail my 28-foot Pearson Triton. Since returning to the US in 2002, after a  second trip around the world, my wife and I have come ashore and been fortunate to work on preparing other sailboats and other sailors for their own voyages - great and small. Our part in their sailing stories is usually a small role - online consulting on boat and equipment choices or passage planning, adding improvements to rigs, installing windvane self-steering, fitting sails or custom made hardware, and so on. A few times we got involved in a complete refit taking several months. It's always greatly satisfying when our customers, now friends, get underway for their own distant or even not-so-distant sea.

Getting on a fast-track to prepare a boat for an extended voyage by hiring expert assistance is becoming more popular. The idea that you can take a shortcut to gain the seamanship skills and sound decision making abilities by hiring a consultant is still controversial, even in my mind. Ideally, you would slowly work your way up to a high level of experience before you set off across an ocean, taking years to acquire skills and gain confidence in your boat and yourself. On the other hand, a few months working with an experienced sailor and getting some time under sail with him could knock a year or more off this learning schedule. How good an idea this is remains to be seen and will to a high degree, depend on the individual's innate abilities, and as always, a bit of luck.

Will this inexperienced sailor succeed in his planned circumnavigation? His boat is ready, but has he realistically anticipated the trials ahead? I hope so. What's important is that he has gotten underway, wherever his path may lead. The world is now wide open to him. Check back here for updates of his voyage.

Kirk agreed I should quote some of our discussions here and we hope other would-be voyagers will find something useful in it. Our correspondence continued:

Kirk,
After speaking with you last night I have some questions and ideas to begin with. It would help if you let me know exactly where you are now with jobs done and jobs to do. We covered a few things on the phone but there are some missing bits. Regarding your questions:

1. Radar/chartplotter/ (multifunction display - MFD) with world set of Navionics charts - I'm concerned that if you go with this you will burn through your 30K refit budget before you get underway. There are many thousands of dollars of other gear you need and an unknown amount for my labor and consulting and assorted boat and living expenses. I say unknown because we don't know how much of the work you can do yourself and how many jobs you will ultimately decide to get into. 

You need a lot of paper charts as backup in case of a system crash (theft, water damage, lightning, etc) anyway so you need to decide how badly you want this. You cannot count on reselling your electronic charts because in three years they may have little value. There is nothing essential about a multifunction display or electronic charts. I admit it's enticing and convenient but there is more to it. In the Chesapeake where you sail now, it's fine - the system goes down, so what, no big problem to replace. Now lets imagine you're running like a scalded cat through a black night in reef-strewn waters of the Torres Straight or Red Sea and it crashes. Because you became so complacent, you stopped updating your position on the paper chart. You say you will but you won't. Now you're searching for a chart you don't have and trying to relearn how to plot a course on paper. Or even worse, the chartplotter has taken you onto a reef because of some programming or user error. More boats are lost this way by guys sitting below deck staring at their chartplotter than by a prudent navigator on deck with eyes and ears open. If you mount the chartplotter below, there are times you'll want it in the cockpit. If you mount it in the cockpit, you won't want to go out there in rough conditions to check it. The only option, aside from two displays, is to have it on an awkward swing-out bracket at the companionway where the wiring cable connections are sometimes exposed to the weather. It's a possibility, but consider a stand-alone radar display accessible from your bunk where you can monitor the radar guard zone with one eye while napping. You can always upgrade later to a MFD if desired. You already have a good amount of world digital charts and MaxSea chart reader software for planning and backup using your notebook PC.

Another issue is adequate detail and coverage of digital charts. Has anyone sailed through Fiji, for example, with Navionics and found all the harbor charts with sufficient detail available compared to paper charts of that area. When someone says "world set" what is meant? You don't need north or south of 40 degrees latitude, so why buy those areas. You probably don't even need 
any North Pacific, most of Africa, most of South America, etc. What you do need is detailed coastal and harbor charts for your proposed route and a few possible off-route alternatives. The digital chart packages I've seen come up short on harbor chart coverage outside the US.

Consider buying a set of paper charts for your route to Panama. Get them used or photocopied - not new. If you find a cheap set of used Pacific charts, get them as well. Bellingham Chart Printers offers sets and individual chart photocopies at a reasonable price. But don't worry about it. In Panama you can trade, photocopy or buy charts from other sailors. Same thing at every major port ahead of you. Don't buy the Red Sea and Med yet - I still have a chance to talk you out of that route. Once you buy the charts I'll never be able to convince you to take the S African route. I can hear it now: "But James I already have the charts for the Med..." ;) 

Get paper or electronic Pilot Charts for N. Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Ocean - maybe S Atlantic too?

Now if you tell me, "James, I like these tech devices and everybody tells me they're important to have." Then I won't disagree. Now you know the cost/risk/benefits so it's your choice. 

2. Radar - if you decide not to get the Raymarine C-series or Garmin  MFD, then the Furuno stand alone unit makes sense. Get the small radome, you don't have the extra power to spare and have no need for the big unit. Its expensive, heavy and more windage as well. Mount the radome on a standard bracket about two feet above the spreaders making sure it is above the whisker pole topping lift fitting and well below any possible inner forestay you may add later. No, you don't need a gimbal radome mount.

3. Autopilot - consider Raymarine S1 tillerpilot. Others models are too small. The electric autopilot will be used only when motoring or in light wind conditions when your windvane self-steering is struggling to hold a course.

4. SSB - If you don't have anything yet, suggest you buy the Sony 7600GR  receiver for listening and for backup and connect it to a simple wire or home-made dipole antenna. I recommend you get an Icom M802 or the less expensive ham version Icom706 if you want to communicate with anyone. We can discuss the merits of each rig and accessory components.

5. Solar panels - consider a minimum of 100 watts output from one or two panels. Of course I like the Atom SolarTracker (read my article) since they optimize electrical output with a minimum footprint. We can set these up for you or you can mount one or two semi-permanent on your bimini or one flat on top your pushpit. Flexible panels are low-output, but if you feel you need more power you can get a third flexible panel to hang over your dodger or bimini when not shaded by the boom. 

6. Wind Generator -  You'll spend a lot of your time in the cockpit in close proximity to the wind generator, whose whining noise would drive me insane before I reached Panama. Other sailors get along just fine and will tell you you'll get used to it. Add to that the high cost, including mounting, the windage and lower than expected output on a downwind circumnavigation. If you have a need for refrigeration on top of many other appliance loads, you may want to consider the Air-X unit or the quieter, lesser output Rutland 913. But remember, it will shade and cut output to your solar panels and things will get crowded back there. 

7. Batteries - if you have refrigeration, radar, autopilot, chartplotter, SSB, inverter/PC, etc you need 400AH minimum - 600AH is better.

8. Repair your Aries windvane - yes, or better yet, sell it and buy a new Norvane. Or even better, if you can afford it, get a Monitor with emergency rudder option. Money spent here is way more important that chartplotters.

9. Install your new Profurl - we can do that here with the mast up. I prefer the Harken Unit 1 for your boat with its integrated turnbuckle, but since you already bought a discounted Profurl, we can make it work.

10. Rebed chainplates and deck hardware - You'll need to check for water intrusion into core around fittings and need to seal holes with epoxy and redrill. If the chainplates are corroded or undersize, you need to replace them.  Do it here if unsure how to proceed. 

11. Modify jibs for furler - For your genoa or largest jib this is doable for about $700 (you need the luff tape, luff foam, sun covers for luff and leech). While it's OK for the Chesapeake, this conversion is not suitable for a circumnavigation because your genoa is probably too light, maybe 5 oz and designed for light air only and isn't cut right for a furling system. I called Mack Sails (we are the Georgia area dealer) and a new 135% furling jib for your boat is $1,944 retail, $1,496 your price, which is 10% over my cost. Shop around and you may find one cheaper, but they will likely be made in China so be sure of your specifications since they will have no useful advice to give you. You can keep a working jib and storm jib if you have an inner forestay. Otherwise, if your existing sails are in excellent condition you can sell them through Bacon & Associates in Annapolis.

Other issues:

Do what you can about your loose rudder pintles and shoe and suspect thru-hull fittings while you're there to avoid another haul-out here. 

If you have a chance to drop your mast there it will be easier than doing it here. If you do, then go ahead and install your mast steps and lights, making sure there is a conduit or other means of preventing wires from slapping inside the mast as the boat rolls. Also, drill a hole about 3/4" diameter (check radar manufacturer for exact hole size) for the radome power supply and run a messenger line through a conduit large enough to pass the radome cable 
through. Or we can do it here, if needed. Before you start buying things you should write out an updated equipment list and check costs on everything so you can see more clearly what compromises make sense so you end 
up with the necessities, if not all the "wanna haves."

Other things we should discuss include: 

ground tackle - manual windlass, anchor roller, three anchors, chains and nylon rodes? 
depth sounder?
head? 
stove? 
storm sails - trysail and jib (inner forestay?)? 
standing and running rigging? 
electric and/or manual bilge pumps?
updated notebook PC?
dodger, bimini and awning? 
mozzie screens? (you'll need them in Georgia!)
water tanks with galley foot pump? 
engine spares?
dinghy and outboard? 
whisker pole with cruising spinnaker? 
emergency rudder and tiller? 
12v to 110v inverter?

James Baldwin
Cruising Yacht Services
Brunswick, GA

Kirk's initial itinerary was to spend September and October equipping the boat in Deale, MD, near Annapolis, leaving the Chesapeake Bay in mid November. By late December he hoped to depart Key West for Panama via Mexico and Central America. He talked so glowingly about this route, I jokingly nicknamed it The Glorious Route. After we examined his job list I realized this rushed schedule was impossible. His proposed route to Panama was also in question. I suggested that he take time to fit out and properly shake down his boat and take a more direct route to Panama and avoid the headwinds when trying to fetch Panama from the west. As reluctant as he was to give up the Glorious Route, events decided it for him as he fell way behind schedule. It is nearly impossible for someone doing their first refit to accurately assess the time, expense and details of preparing a boat for a voyage.

We had much back and forth communications over his ideas for equipment: He wanted an inflatable dinghy with large outboard. I suggested a cheaper, longer lasting, better rowing, small hard dink and 3.5 HP outboard. Because of a lack of time to build a stich and glue pram, he ended up with an 8-foot inflatable and 3.5 outboard.

He wanted to use his non-gimbaled Origo alcohol stove supplemented with a small Force 10 propane canister stove. I suggested a gimbaled kerosene or propane stove. Where south and west of Florida would he find alcohol fuel and little steel cans of propane? He ended up choosing our custom-made kerosene Atom stove. 

He wanted to use a monstrous 45 lb.(!) Delta as primary anchor, 150' of 1/4" chain, no windlass and a tiny 10 lb aluminum Fortress second anchor and a 21 lb Fortress as storm anchor. I advised Kirk: best chain for your boat is 5/16 Grade 40. It's stronger than BBB or proof coil - 3,900 SWL, 11,600 break strength. 150' is a good length for primary anchor and 2 pieces 25' for other two anchors. You need the Lofrans Royal windlass and proper deck chain pipe. 1/4 is not your best choice because you need a reasonable amount of chain weight for catenary effect which prevents wind and wave shocks from snatching your anchor loose. 5/16 is a good compromise for this. 5/16 is also a good compromise for strength. 5/16 chain can rub on the bottom and rust a good bit and still be strong enough to carry on years longer than 1/4. The 5/16 will fit the windlass gypsy. The windlass will be needed in any case to retrieve your 35 lb anchor if there is any wind in an anchorage. 1/4 chain wrapped on a coral head and being shock loaded can easily deform the links and make it useless. I sailed Atom as far as New Guinea with no windlass and light ground tackle, but it was high
risk and lots of work. You can still choose the no windlass, light chain option. You now have the information to decide.

We settled on a 35 lb. Delta as primary anchor, new heavy-duty anchor roller, 150' of 5/16" high test G4 chain with 50' of 5/8" nylon rode attached, manual Lofrans Royal windlass, and three danforth-type secondary anchors each with 25' of chain and 125' nylon including the 21 lb. Fortress.

On it went as we worked out best choices for a hundred or so items from SSB radio to strengthened rigging to water tanks and spares. While in the small boatyard in Maryland, he finished whatever jobs he could alone, including reinforcing loose rudder bearings, checked and rebed all thru-hulls, secured temporary old batteries, installed two electric bilge pumps, installed tiller pilot, rebed handrails and other hardware.  By November, in a mix of short offshore legs and some miles motor-sailing on the ICW, Kirk sailed into Brunswick where we had a slip reserved for him at the private docks next to Golden Isles Marina within sight of the St. Simons Inlet. 

Kirk was determined to do as much of this work himself as possible so we immediately got him the necessary tools and parts and made up a list of jobs to get started on. Over the next three months, Kirk worked an average of six long days per week, finishing about 80% of the actual labor himself. He had read Don Casey's Sailboat Maintenance Manual and other how-to books back in Maryland, but since he had last worked in auto sales, every step of boat repair was a new challenge to him. I'd stop by and get him started tearing out ports and hardware and come back the next day to assist on installation jobs. In December, my wife and I delivered a 49-foot Liberty from Brunswick to St. Thomas, V.I. while Kirk carried on with his work.

On a job like this, things always get worse before they get better: A new watertank under the V-berth ended up with a complete tear-out of the forward cabin since now was a good time to get rid of that inner fiberglass hull liner that reduced storage and blocked access to the hull. 

 

 

(Leg 2 - Brunswick, Georgia to Panama)

In the first week of March 2008 Kirk got underway for Panama with his brother as crew for the first leg to the Bahamas. Since east winds were forecast for the next several days they took a route south along the coast of Florida, staying inside the Gulf Stream current, until reaching Ft. Lauderdale. From there they caught the westerly winds of an approaching cold front for a wild, reefed-down run east across the stream and through the Providence Channel to Nassau. 

Because of his eagerness to get underway, this was really his first good shakedown trip where he quickly got familiar with reefing in squalls, adjusting the windvane self-steering, cooking at sea and all the other tasks a sailor must master on a typical passage. More details are on his blog. Below is part of his update to the Alberg 30 forum:

Just arrived in Nassau from Brunswick GA via Ft. Lauderdale, rough but fast and manageable Gulf Stream crossing, update on that should be on my website soon... Basic mods I did before departure (hope to talk a LOT more about this later for those of you who like details) But all new 1/4" rigging (even the lowers), Furuno Radar, Norvane windvane, Icom 802 SSB w/ separate copper antenna and dipole, manual windlass and bow roller, (they turned out VERY nice so I will get pics of this up soon or they might get posted on James website first since he helped with the refit (www.atomvoyages.com). Added a rain collection system on deck (very simple through hull with valve and hose running to cabin). Re-built entire v-birth with new plastimo flexible tank in its own locker, probably added about 5X the original storage plus same water capacity supplemented with about 30 gallons in jugs. Added Profurl roller furler, new main w/ three reef points and storm trysail, and gennaker all from Mack sails all came out great. Reinforced all of the chain plate supports, and replaced upper shroud chainplates with larger ones, removed origo and installed custom gimbaled kerosene stove, two 55W solar panels custom tracker / mounts, total re-wire with a very nice custom electric panel w hinged door, plus a LOT more... 

Kirk's brother flew home from Nassau and Kirk carried on alone to the Exumas and then a nonstop 11 day passage to Colon, Panama. His blog recounts plenty of drama along the way and makes a good read. Since then Kirk's been through the canal several times as volunteer linehandler on other yachts. Unfortunately his engine broke down twice forcing him to delay his own transit for a few months. Since he missed the best season for crossing the South Pacific he set out on a side trip to the San Blas Islands and Columbia, returning to Panama in February. Since then he has been sailing across the South Pacific towards Australia with plans to arrive in November 2009.

 

   

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